Tip 11: Mileage
Most automotive parts have a limited life expectancy. If the car is still on its original battery, alternator or starter, these may be parts you’ll have to replace once the car accumulates enough miles.
On average, a car battery will last two to three years, though more expensive units may last longer.
It's a good idea to ask to see the owner's manual (or look for a copy online) to know when the manufacturer recommends major services. If you are buying the car right before one of these service intervals, call a dealer to find out what the service typically costs.
Don’t forget to ask …
Is the vehicle is up-to-date on its service? Has the water pump been replaced? What about the shock absorbers or struts?
Here's a bright idea:
Take the car to a mechanic you trust before you commit to buy. Some shops may look the car over for free, while others will charge a fee (usually about an hour of labor). Whatever the cost, it could save you thousands.
Bargaining chip:
About $75 for a battery replacement. Major service can run up to several hundred dollars.
Tip 12: Engine Compartment
Look for fluid leaks and stains around the engine compartment. Be sure to check the hood liner for stains, too. They can indicate past or current problems. The engine should be clean, without any grease or oil anywhere. Major grime can be an indication of a leak.
Don’t forget to ask …
Does the vehicle consume excessive amounts of any fluid? Has the owner had to fix leaking in the past?
Here's a bright idea:
If you find a current leak, ask the seller for a detailed explanation including how long it has been there and whether or not they've attempted to fix it.
Bargaining chip:
A simple valve cover leak can be easy to fix with new gaskets, at a cost of $100-200.
Tip 13: Start the Car
Start the vehicle and watch the tachometer. A healthy engine should idle somewhere between 750 and 1,000 rpm. Pay attention to how the engine idles. An uneven idle could mean a clogged air filter or a leaking intake manifold. Some idling problems can be traced to the fuel system, too.
Don’t forget to ask …
How does the vehicle perform in different weather conditions? A healthy car should operate normally no matter the temperature outside.
Here’s a bright idea:
Before going for a test drive, make sure the registration is up-to-date and that you're covered by an insurance policy - either the seller’s or your own. Ensure that the tags and registration are current.
Bargaining chip:
An uneven idle could be easy to fix or an indication of larger problems. It's best to ask your mechanic. Repairs could run up to $250.
Tip 14: Exhaust
Check the exhaust for smoke. Have a friend (or the seller) rev the engine while you watch the tailpipe emissions. Blue, black or white smoke can be indications of serious engine problems. If it’s cold out, you may see some water vapor coming from the tailpipe as initial white smoke. If it doesn’t clear up in a minute, it could be more serious.
In general, white smoke usually means burning engine coolant (though sometimes oil), blue smoke is caused by burning oil, and black smoke indicates an improper air/fuel ratio (the least severe of the three). But unless the vehicle is an older diesel, you shouldn’t see any smoke from the tailpipe.
Don’t forget to ask …
If you do spot smoke: How long has the vehicle had this problem? Does it require certain conditions to happen?
Quick tips for you to remember
Any noise that sounds out-of-the-ordinary could mean big trouble. Plan to test-drive the car (without the radio on) for at least ten minutes.
Bargaining chip:
Significant exhaust smoke can be a sign of serious engine problems, and possibly significant repair expenses. $500 or more.
Tip 15: Emergency Brakes
Make sure the emergency brake is operational. Most emergency brakes are engaged by either pulling a lever next to the driver’s seat or by depressing a kick pedal to the left of the brake pedal. Emergency brakes usually operate using the rear brakes; worn-out emergency brakes could mean worn rear brake pads, calipers or rotors.
Don’t forget to ask …
When did the vehicle last have its brakes serviced? What was performed?
Here's a bright idea:
During your test drive, park the vehicle on a slight slope, shift into Neutral, engage the emergency brake and slowly let off the brake to see if the vehicle moves. If it does, the emergency brake system is not operating as it should.
Bargaining chip:
An inoperable emergency brake could mean that new pads or shoes are in order. At least $150.
Tip 16: Air Conditioning & Heater
Give the climate control system a thorough run-through. Operate the air conditioning and the heating on every setting and make sure air is flowing out of all of the vents, devoid of any odd noises. Buzzing or rattling could be something as simple as leaves trapped in the ductwork, while a screeching noise underhood could be something more sinister.
Believe it or not, an inoperable heating system may indicate larger trouble with the cooling system.
Don’t forget to ask …
If the car is older: Has the Freon been converted from R12 to R134a? In many states this is mandatory due to damage to the ozone layer. The swap is costly, so make sure it’s been done already.
Here’s a bright idea:
A broken automatic climate control system on newer vehicles can be expensive to repair. Check to be sure all displays are bright and functioning properly.
Bargaining chip:
We're talking $500 or more. Automotive HVAC repairs are almost always expensive, which is why a broken system may never have been fixed to begin with.
Tip 17: Lighting
Make sure both the interior and exterior lights work as they should. Don’t forget to check them all: low- and high-beam headlights, taillights, turn signals, parking lights and all interior bulbs. The cause of a non-operational light may be as simple as a burned-out bulb or as serious as a short in the electrical system.
Newer vehicles may feature LED daytime running lights or brake lights. While LEDs last much longer than traditional light bulbs, they can also be expensive to replace.
Don’t forget to ask …
If the vehicle is equipped with fog lights: Were they were installed by the factory or by the seller? Owner-installed lights may mean an electrical headache is lurking down the road - or noncompliance with state vehicle codes.
Here's a bright idea:
A friend can be a big help when it comes to checking the lights. If no one is available to lend you a hand, a reflective shop-front window works well, too.
Bargaining chip:
Anywhere from $5 to $200. Traditional light bulbs are easy to replace and available from most auto parts stores, but LED displays buried in the dashboard will cost a bundle to fix.
Tip 18: Electronics
Check the electronics. Make sure things like the navigation system, stereo and rear-view camera function as they should. If the vehicle is equipped with a rear-seat DVD player, check to see that the screens operate without any glitches, and that headphones and remote controls that came with the car are present and in working order.
While it may be expensive to replace a factory stereo or navigation system, there are plenty of aftermarket solutions that work just as well for much less money. A malfunctioning stereo won’t impact whether or not the vehicle will get you to work, but it can definitely make the drive unbearable!
Don't forget to ask …
Does the seller have receipts for any of the aftermarket electronics installed in the vehicle?
Here's a bright idea:
If the stereo is equipped with an AUX input, bring along an MP3 player to make sure that it functions.
Bargaining chip:
Depending on what's wrong, $150 to $500. Replacing broken electronics with replacement parts from the factory can be expensive. Don’t be afraid of aftermarket solutions, though.
Tip 19: Interior
Give the interior a thorough inspection. Look over every inch. Check the glove compartment, air vents, center console and cup holders to make sure they work properly. Look for cracks in plastic molding or missing trim pieces. Most small interior pieces can be found only at the dealership, and they aren’t cheap.
Check each seat belt, and look for tears or holes in the upholstery. Interior odors may be an indication of a larger problem. A leaky sunroof or window can cause mold or mildew to grow inside the seat cushions - something that can be both dangerous to your health and expensive to fix.
Don’t forget to ask …
If anything is broken: Has the seller attempted to get it fixed? Some parts may be more difficult to find than others.
Here’s a bright idea:
Sit in every seat of the vehicle, moving them to the fullest extent in each adjustment.
Bargaining chip:
Small pieces may be cheap to replace, but having a leather seat recovered will be expensive. Anywhere from $25 to $300.
Tip 20: Transmission
Does the vehicle shift smoothly into and out of all gears? Before setting out, shift through Park, Reverse, Neutral and Drive. Make sure there is no odd clunking or jerking.
If the vehicle has a manual transmission, make sure the clutch operates without any unusual play. Set the emergency brake, put the vehicle in second gear and slowly let out the clutch. If the engine doesn’t stall, it will soon need a clutch. A manual transmission should shift smoothly with no hesitation or grinding. Whining, scraping or other noises are likely signs of abuse.
Some four-wheel-drive trucks may have hubs that are manually engaged. Check with the seller or the owner’s manual to understand their proper usage.
Don’t forget to ask…
Has the transmission ever been serviced? Most automatic transmissions require a fluid flush and filter change every 75,000 to 100,000 miles. Manual transmissions usually require fresh fluid much sooner.
Here’s a bright idea:
Only check four-wheel-drive systems on a soft surface like gravel, sand, or grass - never on pavement.
Bargaining chip:
Transmission trouble? Forget it. A faulty automatic transmission can easily cost more than $2,000 to replace.
Tip 21: Brakes
Are the brakes noisy? Do they feel “grabby” or do they feel smooth when you apply the pedal? The brake pedal should have a progressive action. Vibration, excessive travel and fade are all symptoms of a bad brake system.
If you feel kickback in the pedal under braking, the rotors will need to be machined or replaced and pads changed. If the car pulls to one side during braking, this could mean expensive replacement parts.
Don’t forget to ask …
When was the last time the brakes were serviced? Ask the seller for a receipt that documents what work was done and when.
Here’s a bright idea:
If you can see the brake pads and rotors through the wheels, check to make sure there are no grooves in the discs. Some surface rust is normal, but large gouges mean trouble. A typical brake pad should have more than 1/2 inch of material to be safe - any less and it will need to be replaced soon.
Bargaining chip:
The cost of a brake service can vary widely, from $150 for a simple pad replacement to over $600 for a fluid flush and rotor replacement.
Tip 22: Alignment
On a straight road, the vehicle shouldn’t need constant correction from the steering wheel. If you find yourself fighting the steering wheel, odds are the suspension is out of alignment.
Most sellers will have a vehicle aligned before they sell it. If the car or truck is out of alignment, it could mean expensive repairs are in store. A poorly-aligned suspension can also indicate damage from a front-end collision, which means that expensive parts may be bent or broken.
Don’t forget to ask …
When did the vehicle last have an alignment? Some responsible owners will go as far as to have the vehicle aligned with tire replacement. Ask to see a receipt documenting the work.
Here’s a bright idea:
Check the tires for odd wear. If portions of the tire have less tread than others or the tread is cupped, the vehicle is out of alignment.
Bargaining chip:
Anywhere from $65 to $1,000. Most tire shops will align a car for around $100. Replacing parts like ball joints, A-arms, tie-rod ends or bent wheels could mean big money, however.
Tip 23: Gauges
Check the gauges. Don’t forget about the instrument cluster. The tachometer, speedometer, temperature and fuel gauges should all function properly, and the temperature and voltage meter gauges should read roughly in the center.
Check to see that all warning lights come on when you turn the key and that they go out shortly thereafter. This will tell you that no bulbs have been removed and that all systems are working properly.
A check engine light can indicate serious problems. Most sellers would fix any small issue that causes the warning light to illuminate before they put the vehicle on the market, so if it’s still on, beware.
A jumpy speedometer could mean anything from a faulty sensor to a bad cable (depending on the age of the vehicle).
Don’t forget to ask …
If the gauges display anything out of the norm: What's the cause - and has the seller attempted to fix the issue in the past?
Here’s a bright idea:
Make sure the odometer is working properly. If it isn’t recording the miles as you drive, that could be a sign of mileage fraud. Stay away!
Bargaining chip:
Remember, the readings on gauges may indicate large problems. $200 and up.
Tip 24: Cruise Control
Check to make sure the cruise control works properly. A malfunctioning cruise control system shouldn’t impact reliability, but it can be expensive to repair.
Make sure you know where the cruise control function is located before beginning your test drive. Most systems are located on or near the steering wheel and won’t function below 30 miles per hour.
Don’t forget to ask …
How does the cruise control work? Systems vary widely from one car to the next, and some may include additional features with which you may not be familiar.
Here’s a bright idea:
Test the cruise control on a highway where you can easily try the different functions without endangering yourself or those around you.
Bargaining chip:
Worst-case, you could be looking at $500 or more. A faulty cruise control system can be expensive to repair.
Tip 25: After the Test Drive
After you’ve driven the vehicle, shut off the engine and restart it. The engine should start without any hesitation or strange noises.
After the engine is off, hold your foot on the brake pedal for a few seconds. If the pedal begins to sink to the floor, the vehicle may have a leak in one of its brake lines - something that is expensive to fix.
Make sure to look under the vehicle again after the test drive to make sure that there isn’t anything leaking or hanging from below.
Don’t forget to ask …
Are there any potential issues that you should be aware of that didn’t arise during the test drive? Also ask the seller what they didn't like about their own car.
Here’s a bright idea:
Once the vehicle is warm, retest the heating and air conditioning system to make sure everything still functions as it should.
Bargaining chip:
After completing your test drive you should have a pretty clear indication of what the vehicle needs, how expensive potential repairs might be, and how this relates to the asking price of the car. Now is the time to point out all of the concerns you have to the owner as the first step in your negotiations.
Helpful used car buying advice from the experts
